Vintage Tenor Sax

[Kenn]

Hey guys…thanks for the replies! Yeah, I realize I should choose the sax for the sound I’m looking for and what has the best feel for me. It may not be either one of these, wish I had 6 tenors to try side by side. I have read several reviews that although the Bundy II is a student horn that it surely doesn’t play or sound like one. And yes…I know a quality MP and ligature can and does make a big difference. Noticed that when I changed them on my alto.
I’ve played both today for awhile interchanging MP’s with one another, although neither are a quality MP. I did feel that the Holton was quite awkward and although it had a darker sound, I thought most of the notes within it’s full range were off somewhat. Some a lot more than others. The Bundy did feel a lot better but wasn’t quite satisfied with the sound…although a lot more in tune than the Holton. Being as both these saxes were in storage and haven’t been played for who knows how long, I’m taking them in to have checked out by a authorized repair man for a quick evaluation. I don’t want to make any decisions or purchases until I know what I’m dealing with.
Again, Thanks for the replies!
Ken

[Anonymous]

if you are a beginner and have loads of money – then buy the best sax you can afford – buy a pro sax – a beginner can learn on any sax, the only problem a beginner might have is learning on a vintage sax.

The main reason not to buy a pro sax for a beginner – it’l take a beginner several years to find out what his true voice on the sax will eventually settle down to and sound like and work out the voicing he/she likes the sound of.

Once a player gets to that stage, then start looking for a PRO sax, thats when you will discover you can try out six Selmar mark VI’s and some of the you will definitely not like the sound of because some won’t give the sound you want to sound like.

as an example – a dad i know wanted to buy his daughter the latest Selmar – she had only played a few weeks, she tried out the selmars , didn’t like the sound and went for a yamaha student sax – liked the sound better. 5 years later when she passed grade 5 exam with distinction – went in the shop again to upgrade her sax, tried out all the name brands, and this time picked out a selmar – loved the sound of it.

Bottom line – a begginer doesn’t know what they will sound like in 2 years time, and when you know what you eventually sound like and like the sound of your sound – buy a pro model that suits your sound.

[Bill Mecca]

Some early Bundy horns are actually soft after as they were built by Keilwerth. Student horns tend to be built to take abuse and are thus a bit clunkier in action. many started as top of the line horns and then when they came out with newer models, last years because the intermediate horn and the early model the student horn. Think about Martin Committee I, II and II (which is The Martin and highly revered).

IIRC Holton did not actually manufacture horns themselves, but bought them from other companies like Martin (usually identifable by the beveled toneholes) Known as Stencil horns. They can be some great horns hiding in plain sight. Yamaha made some of the early Vito horns.

Pete Hales used to run a website called saxpics, he had a ton of information like this. he sold it a number of years ago so I can’t vouch for it’s accuracy these days.

Basically, get the highest quality horn you can afford. stay away from some of those cheapies on ebay, tuning is suspect and keywork can be soft, thus messing with tuning. It’s a vicious cycle.

[Kenn]

After taking both horns to the authorized repair shop for further evaluation I decided to pass on both of them. On the Holton he was able to get some of the notes in tune but the MP was near falling off as he had it that far out. The remainder notes were still all over the place. That alone was decisive for me but I did ask him what he thought it was worth and he replied, “I wouldn’t give a hundred bucks for it”.

For the Selmer Bundy II he said it was in average condition but needed about $70 worth of repairs and a new MP. That horn runs about $470 – $575 in avg. condition. Plus a new MP and ligature would have ran another $200 so all in all it would have cost me around $700 which I didn’t want to spend for a horn from the 80’s. He did say that those Selmer’s were the last of the good ones.

So anyways, I’m going to keep looking locally as I don’t want to buy off the internet unless I can actually see it and play it. I’m treating this like getting a new puppy…lol. You will know when it’s the right one for you! Thanks for all your input.
Ken

[Jazz Cat]

I’d recommend a YTS23 on ebay (though maybe just buy from US-based seller w/99%+ rating who offers money-back guarantee); that’s what I play; it’s a great horn, here’s mine in action:

http://tradingjazz.com/

and my ebay buyers’ tips:

http://forum.saxontheweb.net/showthread.php?209678-eBay-Sax-Buyers-Guide-7-Tips-for-How-to-Buy-a-Used-Sax-Successfully-on-Ebay-without-getting-burned

[Kenn]

Thanks but no thanks JC. I think buying a sax is based on personal preferences, at least for me anyways. I must see, feel, and play the sax before I make the purchase. You can’t do that over the internet. Actually, I did try the YTS23 and I had to pass on that one as well. With that said though, I’m sure it is a very fine horn as many have them and play them well. As I mentioned earlier, I’ll know for sure the sax for me when I come across it. Thanks for your input anyways!
Ken

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